Andi Leto Denes
Khan-Tengri 2005
(29th of July - 28th of August)

Our route: Bp -> Ungvar -> Kiev -> Almaty -> Karakara -> Base camp (BC) -> Khan-Tengri
Location: N42°12' / E80°10'
Height: 7010 meters

 Our goal is the northernmost seven thousander of world again. It lays on the border across Kazakstan and Kyrgyzistsan, about 8kms from China, in the middle part of the Tien-Shan mountain system. It's the second highest peak next to Pobeda (Victory, 7439m).
 We have no sponsors. We bought transfer and base camp service from a tour company. No mountain guide, just independent climbers. We'll follow the north normal route (5b) with three high camps.

Camp heights:

  • BC: 4000 m
  • C1: 4550 m
  • C2: 5500 m
  • C3: 5900 m

 There is two normal route. We choose the slightly more difficult, but avalanche free northern. It's a bit steeper, and you have to gain same extra elevation to the Chapava peak between the 2nd and the 3rd camp. After this 6100 false peak you walk down to the saddle, where the two normal route joins. From the saddle we'll follow the west ridge right to the top.